# Puppy Walking Problems



## pm203 (Sep 1, 2010)

When we walk our 10 month old male, he absolutely goes crazy whenever he sees another person or especially another dog. He is so uncontrollable, it is embarassing. He also is screamin so loud, it sounds like he is being hurt when he is not. Today, while passing a Yorkie, I allowed him to go over to meet the dog. He was very playful. But, when we parted ways with the other dog, he went crazy again. Is this normal? What can we do to overcome this?


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## jmm (Nov 23, 2004)

Normal? No. What you can do depends on why your dog is doing what he is doing. He could be fearful or he could have no impulse control and be overly excited. Deciding why he does it and the best plan would require seeing the behavior in person including seeing what you do when it happens. If you need help finding someone to help you in person we can offer some resources.


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## pm203 (Sep 1, 2010)

He definetely is excited, there is no doubt about that. He wants to go over to the other dog or person. Its like nothing else matters at that time.


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## jimenezb88 (Oct 24, 2008)

Wow! Betzy does that too and when i walk her near the person or dog she plays with them and kisses them and stuff so i also thing is excitement :/


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## jmm (Nov 23, 2004)

Then we work on impulse control with Its Yer Choice as well as a cue to allow the dog to say hello. 

I caution people to self-diagnose their dogs...I've often seen anxiety confused as enthusiasm.


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## CloudClan (Jan 31, 2007)

This is classic reactive behavior (defined as an over the top reaction to common stimuli: usually strange people or dogs). As Jackie says it could be anxiety, enthusiasm or a mix. 

I would highly encourage you to seek out some professional assistance in the form of a trainer familiar with working with reactive dogs. I went to a camp run by Pat Miller (one of the foremost positive trainers in the country) for reactive canines. She has some recommended trainers around the country. You might want to do some reading on her site. Peaceable Paws I also posted a thread a while back with some of the information I learned at her camp. I will see if I can find that thread and link it.


Edited to add the link for that thread and two others that discuss our personal experience: 

What is a Reactive Dog?
http://spoiledmaltese.com/forum/54-maltese-training/106557-what-reactive-dog.html

Cadeau goes to Boot Camp
http://spoiledmaltese.com/forum/54-maltese-training/105021-cadeau-goes-boot-camp.html

Cadeau's Reactive Rover Camp
http://spoiledmaltese.com/forum/54-maltese-training/106537-cadeaus-reactive-rover-camp.html


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## pm203 (Sep 1, 2010)

Best way to work on impulse control? He is too charged up to be interested in a reward. He is not afraid or aggresive. He just wants to be able to get to the other dog and person. He sounds like he is crying, but he is not. When he finally gets there, he does his normal sniff thing and wants to play. As soon as the dog leaves, he goes crazy again.


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## jmm (Nov 23, 2004)

Again, you are probably assuming excitement. Do you know the body language of a dog with other emotions? It can take a well-trained eye to see. 

For obnoxious, excited dogs I do ItsYerChoice which is a Susan Garrett method. You can check out videos on youtube. When doing it on leash when the dog goes for something you have not allowed (I start with food on the ground), you slide your hand down the leash and the dog and you take 5 penalty steps back. Literally stepping back, you do not turn around, the dog's view should not be broken. You say nothing. Try to approach again. Repeat until the dog makes a choice to look away, click/treat. This only addresses impulse control. It does not address all of the reactive dog stuff. Doing ItsYerChoice requires a good trainer on the end of the leash with really great timing. Again, I recommend having your dog evaluated by a professional before jumping off...this may not be the right approach. We can't see your dog over the internet.


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## CloudClan (Jan 31, 2007)

Being too charged up to be interested in food is extremely common with reactive dogs and means he is too far over his threshold to handle the extra stimuli. Food can even become an aversive when pushed at the dog at this point. This is why Pat Miller's approach recommends not putting the dogs in places where you are triggering a full blown reaction, but instead setting the dogs up for success by trying to do setups in a controlled environment. So that you control distance and speed. Did you look at the list of referred trainers on her website for one in your area? I really would encourage you to seek out assistance with this as it is very challenging to work on without some professional assistance.


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## pm203 (Sep 1, 2010)

I will check the list for trainers in my area. I just find it hard to believe that this is something that I cannot correct on my own. But, I have to believe that there are alot more knowledgable people on this site than me.


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## cleterdog (Jun 23, 2011)

You could also try lots more socializing in controlled environments like mentioned already. I used to walk my Aussie absolutely everywhere and have everyone come up to him. He didn't have this issue, but the constant practice and positive rewards really helped his behavior. I took obedience classes a lot in the past and what they did was have you practice walking up to strangers so they could pet your dog with your dog behaving and you had to walk away until he/she behaved. Maybe this could be incorporated for the leaving thing. Walk away a lot and when he/she behaves reward a ton! Just try different things until you see positive behaviors and go nuts!


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