# spray deterrent?



## michynyc (Sep 25, 2008)

Is there a spray I can use on my carpet as a deterrent so he will not want to go there? He has pooped on 2 different locations on my newly cleaned carpet so it's not that he's going back to an old spot, these are new spots. I'm in a new apartment so I'm thinking it's probably related to the change, but I don't want him making any more mistakes. I just want him to be turned off from going there.

Would appreciate any suggestions...thanks!


----------



## Starsmom (Jan 31, 2009)

QUOTE (michynyc @ Mar 17 2009, 03:21 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=747143


> Is there a spray I can use on my carpet as a deterrent so he will not want to go there? He has pooped on 2 different locations on my newly cleaned carpet so it's not that he's going back to an old spot, these are new spots. I'm in a new apartment so I'm thinking it's probably related to the change, but I don't want him making any more mistakes. I just want him to be turned off from going there.
> 
> Would appreciate any suggestions...thanks![/B]


If there were pets in the apartment from the previous tenant that were using the carpet for a potty, and the carpet was "cleaned" but those spots were not treated for pet stains, your baby can smell the residue and will go there also. You could buy a carpet cleaner - pet soil type - and go over that area per mfg. instructions. Then get a specific product called "Urine Out"
for use after you clean the carpet.


----------



## jmm (Nov 23, 2004)

Go back to Puppy 101 with housetraining. Any stressful event (a move is one of those) can lead to a lapse in housetraining. Confine, schedule, reward.


----------



## Ladysmom (Oct 19, 2004)

QUOTE (JMM @ Mar 17 2009, 07:41 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=747197


> Go back to Puppy 101 with housetraining. Any stressful event (a move is one of those) can lead to a lapse in housetraining. Confine, schedule, reward.[/B]


 :thmbup: I moved this past Spring and thirteen year old Lady completely forgot she was housebroken for a couple of weeks. :smpullhair: 

My old gal had to go back to potty training 101.


----------



## michynyc (Sep 25, 2008)

QUOTE (LadysMom @ Mar 17 2009, 08:03 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=747215


> QUOTE (JMM @ Mar 17 2009, 07:41 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=747197





> Go back to Puppy 101 with housetraining. Any stressful event (a move is one of those) can lead to a lapse in housetraining. Confine, schedule, reward.[/B]


 :thmbup: I moved this past Spring and thirteen year old Lady completely forgot she was housebroken for a couple of weeks. :smpullhair: 

My old gal had to go back to potty training 101. 
[/B][/QUOTE]

We didn't do a lot of potty training 101! He has been trained on wee-wee pads and sort of just "knew" to go on there when I'm not home! I'm not going to be able to confine him...any suggestions on how to begin this training?!

Thanks everyone!


----------



## SicilianRose (Jun 8, 2008)

QUOTE (michynyc @ Mar 19 2009, 02:22 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=748229


> QUOTE (LadysMom @ Mar 17 2009, 08:03 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=747215





> QUOTE (JMM @ Mar 17 2009, 07:41 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=747197





> Go back to Puppy 101 with housetraining. Any stressful event (a move is one of those) can lead to a lapse in housetraining. Confine, schedule, reward.[/B]


 :thmbup: I moved this past Spring and thirteen year old Lady completely forgot she was housebroken for a couple of weeks. :smpullhair: 

My old gal had to go back to potty training 101. 
[/B][/QUOTE]

We didn't do a lot of potty training 101! He has been trained on wee-wee pads and sort of just "knew" to go on there when I'm not home! I'm not going to be able to confine him...any suggestions on how to begin this training?!

Thanks everyone!
[/B][/QUOTE]

I think what everyone is saying regarding to confinement is place him in an EX-Pen and make sure that half of the pen is wee wee pads and the other half is his bed and food/water. Place him on a schedule so that he comes out for an hour or two at a time and is in the pen for only nap times. This way he will know that he has to go back to his wee wee pads for going potty. Also, another way to keep a dog from going potty is taking him out in the back yard on the hour every hour and you must remain consistent with this. 

Here is what one site is recommending and re-enforces what I and the others are saying.

http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/retrain-dog.pdf

*Re-Housetraining Your Adult Dog*
Many adult dogs adopted from animal shelters were housetrained in their previous homes. While at
the shelter, however, they may not have gotten enough opportunities to eliminate outside, and
consequently, they may have soiled their kennel areas. This tends to weaken their housetraining
habits. Additionally, scents and odors from other pets in the new home may stimulate some initial
urine marking. Remember that you and your new dog need some time to learn each other’s signals
and routines. Even if he was housetrained in his previous home, if you do not recognize his
“bathroom” signal, you might miss his request to go out, causing him to eliminate indoors.
Therefore, for the first few weeks after you bring him home, you should assume your new dog is not
housetrained and start from scratch. If he was housetrained in his previous home, the re-training
process should progress quickly. The process will be much smoother if you take steps to prevent
accidents and remind him where he’s supposed to eliminate.
*Establish a Routine*
Take your dog out at the same times every day. For example, first thing in the morning when
he wakes up, when you arrive home from work, and before you go to bed.
Praise your dog lavishly every time he eliminates outdoors. You can even give him a treat. You
must praise him and give him a treat immediately after he has finished and not wait until after
he comes back inside the house. This step is vital, because rewarding your dog for eliminating
outdoors is the only way he will know that is what you want him to do.
Choose a location not too far from the door to be the bathroom spot. Always take your dog,
on leash, directly to the bathroom spot. Take him for a walk or play with him only after he has
eliminated. If you clean up an accident in the house, leave the soiled rags or paper towels in
the bathroom spot. The smell will help your dog recognize the area as the place where he is
supposed to eliminate.
While your dog is eliminating, use a word or phrase like “go potty,” that you can eventually use
before he eliminates to remind him of what he is supposed to be doing.
Feeding your dog on a set schedule, once or twice a day, will help make his elimination more
regular.
*Supervise, Supervise, Supervise*
Do not give your dog an opportunity to soil in the house. He should be watched at all times when he
is indoors. You can tether him to you with a six-foot leash, or use baby gates, to keep him in the room
where you are. Watch for signs that he needs to eliminate, like sniffing around or circling. If you see
these signs, immediately take him outside, on a leash, to his bathroom spot. If he eliminates, praise
him lavishly and reward him with a treat.
*Confinement*
When you’re unable to watch your dog closely, he should be confined to an area small enough that
he won’t want to eliminate there. It should be just big enough for him to comfortably stand, lie down
and turn around in. This could be a portion of a bathroom or laundry room blocked off with boxes or
baby gates. Or you may want to crate train your dog and use the crate to confine him (see our
handout: “Crate Training Your Dog”). If he has spent several hours in confinement, when you let him
out, take him directly to his bathroom spot and praise him when he eliminates.
*Oops!*
Most dogs, at some point, will have an accident in the house. You should expect this, as it is a normal
part of your dog’s adjustment to his new home.
If you catch your dog in the act of eliminating in the house, do something to interrupt him like
making a startling noise (be careful not to scare him). Immediately take him to his bathroom
spot, praise him, and give him a treat if he finishes eliminating there.
Do not punish your dog for eliminating in the house. If you find a soiled area, it is too late to
administer a correction. Do nothing but clean it up. Rubbing your dog's nose in it, taking him to
the spot and scolding him, or any other type of punishment, will only make him afraid of you or
afraid to eliminate in your presence. Animals do not understand punishment after the fact,
even if it is only seconds later. Punishment will do more harm than good.
Cleaning the soiled area is very important because dogs are highly motivated to continue
soiling in areas that smell like urine or feces (see our handout: “Successful Cleaning to Remove
Pet Odors and Stains”).
*Other Types of Housesoiling Problems*
If you have consistently followed the housetraining procedures and your dog continues to eliminate
in the house, there may be another reason for his behavior.
*Medical Problems:* House soiling can often be caused by physical problems such as a urinary
tract infection or a parasite infection. Check with your veterinarian to rule out any possibility of
disease or illness.
*Submissive/Excitement Urination: *Some dogs, especially young ones, temporarily lose control
of their bladders when they become excited or feel threatened. This usually occurs during
greetings, intense play or when they are about to be punished (see our handout: “Submissive
and Excitement Urination”).
*Territorial Urine-Marking:* Dogs sometimes deposit urine or feces, usually in small amounts, to
scent-mark their territory. Both male and female dogs do this, and it most often occurs when
they believe their territory has been invaded (see our handout: ‘Territorial Marking Behavior in
Dogs and Cats”).
*Separation Anxiety.* Dogs that become anxious when they are left alone may house soil as a
result. Usually, there are other symptoms, such as destructive behavior or vocalization (see our
handout: “Separation Anxiety”).
*Fears or Phobias. *When animals become frightened, they may lose control of their bladder
and/or bowels. If your dog is afraid of loud noises, such as thunderstorms or fireworks, he may
house soil when he is exposed to these sounds (see our handout: “Helping Your Dog
Overcome the Fear of Thunder and Other Startling Noises”).
*Surface Preferences.* When a dog has been trained to eliminate on only one type of surface,
such as newspapers, or has not been offered a variety of surfaces, such as being confined to
a run with a concrete floor, a surface preference may develop. This can be difficult to change
but is often managed by ensuring that their preferred substrate is unavailable indoors, but is
available in an outdoor location.
2004 Dumb Friends


----------



## michynyc (Sep 25, 2008)

QUOTE (SicilianRose @ Mar 19 2009, 02:45 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=748240


> QUOTE (michynyc @ Mar 19 2009, 02:22 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=748229





> QUOTE (LadysMom @ Mar 17 2009, 08:03 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=747215





> QUOTE (JMM @ Mar 17 2009, 07:41 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=747197





> Go back to Puppy 101 with housetraining. Any stressful event (a move is one of those) can lead to a lapse in housetraining. Confine, schedule, reward.[/B]


 :thmbup: I moved this past Spring and thirteen year old Lady completely forgot she was housebroken for a couple of weeks. :smpullhair: 

My old gal had to go back to potty training 101. 
[/B][/QUOTE]

We didn't do a lot of potty training 101! He has been trained on wee-wee pads and sort of just "knew" to go on there when I'm not home! I'm not going to be able to confine him...any suggestions on how to begin this training?!

Thanks everyone!
[/B][/QUOTE]

I think what everyone is saying regarding to confinement is place him in an EX-Pen and make sure that half of the pen is wee wee pads and the other half is his bed and food/water. Place him on a schedule so that he comes out for an hour or two at a time and is in the pen for only nap times. This way he will know that he has to go back to his wee wee pads for going potty. Also, another way to keep a dog from going potty is taking him out in the back yard on the hour every hour and you must remain consistent with this. 

Here is what one site is recommending and re-enforces what I and the others are saying.

http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/retrain-dog.pdf

*Re-Housetraining Your Adult Dog*
Many adult dogs adopted from animal shelters were housetrained in their previous homes. While at
the shelter, however, they may not have gotten enough opportunities to eliminate outside, and
consequently, they may have soiled their kennel areas. This tends to weaken their housetraining
habits. Additionally, scents and odors from other pets in the new home may stimulate some initial
urine marking. Remember that you and your new dog need some time to learn each other’s signals
and routines. Even if he was housetrained in his previous home, if you do not recognize his
“bathroom” signal, you might miss his request to go out, causing him to eliminate indoors.
Therefore, for the first few weeks after you bring him home, you should assume your new dog is not
housetrained and start from scratch. If he was housetrained in his previous home, the re-training
process should progress quickly. The process will be much smoother if you take steps to prevent
accidents and remind him where he’s supposed to eliminate.
*Establish a Routine*
Take your dog out at the same times every day. For example, first thing in the morning when
he wakes up, when you arrive home from work, and before you go to bed.
Praise your dog lavishly every time he eliminates outdoors. You can even give him a treat. You
must praise him and give him a treat immediately after he has finished and not wait until after
he comes back inside the house. This step is vital, because rewarding your dog for eliminating
outdoors is the only way he will know that is what you want him to do.
Choose a location not too far from the door to be the bathroom spot. Always take your dog,
on leash, directly to the bathroom spot. Take him for a walk or play with him only after he has
eliminated. If you clean up an accident in the house, leave the soiled rags or paper towels in
the bathroom spot. The smell will help your dog recognize the area as the place where he is
supposed to eliminate.
While your dog is eliminating, use a word or phrase like “go potty,” that you can eventually use
before he eliminates to remind him of what he is supposed to be doing.
Feeding your dog on a set schedule, once or twice a day, will help make his elimination more
regular.
*Supervise, Supervise, Supervise*
Do not give your dog an opportunity to soil in the house. He should be watched at all times when he
is indoors. You can tether him to you with a six-foot leash, or use baby gates, to keep him in the room
where you are. Watch for signs that he needs to eliminate, like sniffing around or circling. If you see
these signs, immediately take him outside, on a leash, to his bathroom spot. If he eliminates, praise
him lavishly and reward him with a treat.
*Confinement*
When you’re unable to watch your dog closely, he should be confined to an area small enough that
he won’t want to eliminate there. It should be just big enough for him to comfortably stand, lie down
and turn around in. This could be a portion of a bathroom or laundry room blocked off with boxes or
baby gates. Or you may want to crate train your dog and use the crate to confine him (see our
handout: “Crate Training Your Dog”). If he has spent several hours in confinement, when you let him
out, take him directly to his bathroom spot and praise him when he eliminates.
*Oops!*
Most dogs, at some point, will have an accident in the house. You should expect this, as it is a normal
part of your dog’s adjustment to his new home.
If you catch your dog in the act of eliminating in the house, do something to interrupt him like
making a startling noise (be careful not to scare him). Immediately take him to his bathroom
spot, praise him, and give him a treat if he finishes eliminating there.
Do not punish your dog for eliminating in the house. If you find a soiled area, it is too late to
administer a correction. Do nothing but clean it up. Rubbing your dog's nose in it, taking him to
the spot and scolding him, or any other type of punishment, will only make him afraid of you or
afraid to eliminate in your presence. Animals do not understand punishment after the fact,
even if it is only seconds later. Punishment will do more harm than good.
Cleaning the soiled area is very important because dogs are highly motivated to continue
soiling in areas that smell like urine or feces (see our handout: “Successful Cleaning to Remove
Pet Odors and Stains”).
*Other Types of Housesoiling Problems*
If you have consistently followed the housetraining procedures and your dog continues to eliminate
in the house, there may be another reason for his behavior.
*Medical Problems:* House soiling can often be caused by physical problems such as a urinary
tract infection or a parasite infection. Check with your veterinarian to rule out any possibility of
disease or illness.
*Submissive/Excitement Urination: *Some dogs, especially young ones, temporarily lose control
of their bladders when they become excited or feel threatened. This usually occurs during
greetings, intense play or when they are about to be punished (see our handout: “Submissive
and Excitement Urination”).
*Territorial Urine-Marking:* Dogs sometimes deposit urine or feces, usually in small amounts, to
scent-mark their territory. Both male and female dogs do this, and it most often occurs when
they believe their territory has been invaded (see our handout: ‘Territorial Marking Behavior in
Dogs and Cats”).
*Separation Anxiety.* Dogs that become anxious when they are left alone may house soil as a
result. Usually, there are other symptoms, such as destructive behavior or vocalization (see our
handout: “Separation Anxiety”).
*Fears or Phobias. *When animals become frightened, they may lose control of their bladder
and/or bowels. If your dog is afraid of loud noises, such as thunderstorms or fireworks, he may
house soil when he is exposed to these sounds (see our handout: “Helping Your Dog
Overcome the Fear of Thunder and Other Startling Noises”).
*Surface Preferences.* When a dog has been trained to eliminate on only one type of surface,
such as newspapers, or has not been offered a variety of surfaces, such as being confined to
a run with a concrete floor, a surface preference may develop. This can be difficult to change
but is often managed by ensuring that their preferred substrate is unavailable indoors, but is
available in an outdoor location.
2004 Dumb Friends
[/B][/QUOTE]


Wow, this is wonderful. Thanks so much for taking the time to post this. I will give it a shot! I'm out of my home a lot, I live in an apartment building, and I also have cat that likes to taunt him, so we'll see how it goes!


----------

